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Everyone needs a new bike day now and again.

Its not so long ago, just a few weeks in fact, that I broke my arm racing at the Welsh Gravity Enduro Series. While the healing process has been quick enough, and relatively painless all things considered, it’s still fairly weak, and the range of movement I have right now is somewhat limited.

Me, broken.
To help me get back on the bike, I decided to build up myself an AM to keep in the van, ready to snatch a ride whenever the opportunity occurs. For this type of endeavour the hard tail is the weapon of choice, ride-rinse-ignore-repeat. It just has a certain bombproof-ness that suits a winter ride that a full suss will never match. While this probably doesn’t sound so unusual to most people, you might be surprised to hear I don’t personally own a bike right now. At least not a whole bike, and certainly not one that is readily available. I split my time between Bird HQ and the far north east of England where I live, and I really only ride whatever happens to be available from the demo fleet, or any prototypes that are lying around. For the last 3+ years since Bird started I’ve never actually owned a bike, 100% complete, that I could call my own.

The Mean Green Machine

Deciding to correct this anomaly in my life, I set about building the mean green machine. Its based around a standard spec AM with a few tweaks to make it my own, and I thought I would share it with you.
I decided to go with a medium, an unusual choice given my penchant for longer bikes, but the limited range of movement on my arm, combined with wanting something for quick blasts when I could meant a medium suited me better right now. Size is an interesting thing, we often get asked “what size should I buy?” and while we try and offer the best advice we can, it is ultimately a personal preference. I can easily ride a large AM as well as I can a medium, but on this day, a medium was just the better choice for what I wanted.
I decided that this build would be stealth black and green, mainly because I had some green hubs that I’d had made for me knocking about, but also because the stealth black is a bit of a labour of love for me, having spent a long while getting just the finish I wanted from the paint-shop, so it seems only right I went with that.

The Mean Green Machine

The Specification

Everything starts with the specification when we build a bike for a customer, and for me it was just the same. I decided to go pretty high end on this one, throwing caution into the wind and instead making the very best AM I could from the parts I had available.
  • Bird Zero AM – Size M, Stealth Black
  • RockShox Lyrik RCT3 160* SA, Stealth Black
  • SRAM Eagle X01 drivetrain
  • SRAM Eagle X01 Carbon cranks, 34T
  • Hope Stainless BB w/GXP conversion
  • SRAM Guide RS Brakes
  • SRAM Centerline 200/180 rotors
  • RaceFace Turbine R 35 Stem, 40mm
  • RaceFace Next SL 35 bars, 760mm, green
  • RaceFace Half Nelson grips, grey
  • Cane Creek 40 headset
  • RockShox Reverb Stealth 170mm, left hand under bar
  • Fabric Scoop Race Saddle, Ti rails
  • One Up Bash Guard
  • RaceFace Chester composite pedals, green
  • Prototype carbon rims, 32mm internal
  • Custom made hubs, 142/12 & 100/15mm, 28h, XD driver, green
  • DT Swiss Competition spokes w/Pro Lock Squorx brass nipples
  • Maxxis Shorty 2.5WT Exo TR Maxx Terra up front
  • Maxxis DHR2 2.3 Exo TR Maxx Terra out back
  • RockShox Maxle Ultimate, 142/12
* The Lyriks are currently 160mm, but unlikely to stay that way. I will probably chop out the air shaft for a 150 or maybe even 140mm air shaft, but I figured I would try a 160mm hard tail out to see how it goes before doing that. Testing whenever we can is part of our ethos in order to find out what works and doesn’t. I should point out that running a 160mm fork on your AM will invalidate it’s warranty!

The Build

First thing to do was make some wheels. If you ever fancy building your own wheels, I can strongly recommend you build them with carbon rims. Building carbon wheels is ludicrously easy compared to aluminium rims. The stiffness of the rims means its very easy to get them straight and round with minimal effort. Whereas an alu rim will deflect and go egg shaped relatively easily with moderate variations in spoke tension, a carbon rim defiantly wants to stay true and round unless you really mess it up.
The rims I used are some new 32mm internal rims from one of our manufacturers. I’d specced them up with an ‘enduro-proof’ layup, blending strength where its needed with some weight saving where its not, to give a stiff, strong rim that was not too heavy. We’ve broken enough rims here at Bird to know what needs to go where, or at least I think we do. They could be lighter, but I wanted them to last. Paired with 28 DT Swiss Competition spokes per rim, they are a cost effective, mid weight option, perfect for this build. Brass double head DT squorx pro-lock nipples finish off the build. These nipples are perfect for carbon rim builds, and I had the rims custom drilled to ensure that not only were the nipple angles exactly as I wanted them for my hubs, but that building from the back, as is the best way, was a cinch. Thanks to Dan for doing me some nice technical drawings just for the hole drilling! It’s all about the details…
The hubs are made by a small machine shop in Taiwan, that specialises in high end hubs.

Sometimes to get what you want you need to go the extra mile.
They are based on a standard DH offering the hub co. makes, but I had them machined out to save weight while keeping the nice big bearings, and adjusted for a 12 and 15mm axle 🙂 I would normally go straight to Hope for my hubs, but they won’t supply me green ones, and I wanted green, so custom it was. These come in around 30g lighter after all the extra machining than a pair of Hope Pro 4s too, which is a bonus. The quality of the manufacture is excellent, and the sealing is first rate, so I have high hopes for these. My one gripe is that while I asked to trim the flange width a little to save weight, I should have done my homework a bit better, as the DH-spec flanges on these hubs are still very fat, and that means the spokes don’t sit perfectly in the holes, as the J Bend is a little too abrupt to work its way round the flange thickness, but thats a small complaint I guess. Next time I will fix that up.
Weight-wise the wheels run at just over 1750g for the pair. Not the lightest wheels I will ever build up, but they certainly feel like one of the stiffest I’ve ever built, and they should last forever!

Assembly

Wheels built, the rest of the bike is of course a breeze. We build alot of bikes here at Bird, everyone built by us to order, so assembly is pretty much a doddle. There’s a few steps you probably don’t realise we do though, before a Bird gets assembled, including:
  • We tap every BB shell again, no matter how good it looks, to ensure that its clean and ready to have the BB fitted.
  • We tap the ISG05 tabs, and the maxle threads
  • We check the seat-tube ream
  • We check the facing on the head-tube and BB to ensure its perfect
  • We inspect the paintwork end-to-end to ensure its chip and mark free
  • We check the alignment of the bike to ensure it is straight, and the brake mounts are straight too
You’d be surprised what you’ll find on many bikes if you look closely. In my lifetime I’ve seen some real doozies from big manufacturers, leaving me scratching my head wondering “how on earth does this stuff pass QC?”, here at Bird, even our personal bikes get proper quality control before they leave the workshop, and yours more so (I must admit not checking the paintwork on my own bike 🙂 ).

Parts Highlights

The highlight of this build for me has to be the Xo1 Eagle. SRAM’s new 12 speed groupset. Its a joy to use and offers a massive 500% range from a single shifter. It really is a game changer. The shifting is so precise its crazy, and the adjustment you get from the shifter brake combo is huge too, allowing you to easily set up the shifter just right for you. With 2 horizontal positions, about 45 degrees of fore-aft rotation, and an adjustable downshift lever, the SRAM set up on X01 is about as good as it gets. The shifting is incredible, so quick and smooth its like its not happening, and the 12 speed cassette weighs very little for its size. OK so its expensive, but when you see the detail thats gone into it, you start to understand why.

160 party up front, all serious out back. The X01 Eagle drivetrain provides some real XC capability.

The machining on the X01 (And XX1) cassettes is mentally intricate.
One thing you probably don’t know is that Eagle cassettes run narrow-wide rings on the biggest two cassette cogs. This is to eliminate the dropped chains from back / slack pedalling as far as I know and have experienced, and it works. Oddly, although it probably shouldn’t you never experience a mis-match between chain and cog either. The chain finds it’s paired thick-thin quite happily with every shift.
Drivetrain selected, the rest of the parts are an easy choice, balancing weight and strength at every opportunity. I decided to go big on the rotors as the Guide RS brakes offer excellent modulation even on the biggest rotors, and went in for the 170mm reverb as well, something with my stumpy legs I can’t normally quite manage, but given this is a medium AM I could just squeeze it in.
A first for me was composite flat pedals. I used to be 100% clipped in, but overtime I have begun to appreciate the benefits of flat pedals paired with good shoes. This time of year I am running FiveTen Freerider Elements, a shoe I can’t say anything bad about, other than there’s no black & green version. Paired with the Chester composite pedals its a great combo. The Chester is light and had a good size platform, and runs a screw in pin and nut system, which is great as it means that you can loose a pin through smashing it out and still pop a new one back in no hassles. The Chester isn’t the grippiest pedal I’ve ever run, but to be fair, I find the grippiest ones a bit weird to ride on, offering so much grip that you struggle to adjust your foot position when you’ve got it somehow in an awkward position. I actually prefer the ‘medium’ grip of the Chester I think.

Plastic Fantastic. Composite (Posh word for plastic) pedals are becoming increasingly common on the trails, and for good reason.
Other parts of note might include the One-Up Components Bash guide. Again an often asked question is “Do I need a chainguide?” The answer is both yes and no. No, because chain drops are a rarity nowadays with the various thick-thin chainrings we supply, but yes, because even that is not 100% reliable, especially as the ring wears, but more important is the ‘bash’ part. The chainring on those X01 cranks is expensive. Very expensive. It runs at £87 RRP. That’s not a typo. OK, so if you run X01 Eagle you’re likely aware of its running cost, and thats not an issue for you I guess, but chainrings, especially on low-BB bikes like ours are exposed to all kinds of nasty rock and log strikes that will turn your lovely chainring into a pringle in a heartbeat. The investment in a bash guard, with the added bonus of a silent, friction free top guide to go with it is a very sensible one. It weighs next to nothing, never wears out and might save you a fortune in chainrings.

An expensive chainring protected by an inexpensive bash guide.
Other little tweaks just for me include using a second clamp for the right brake. Maybe I have short thumbs, maybe I am weird, but I prefer splitting up my Reverb remote from the brake in order it can be closer to the grips. It’s just a nicer position for me to use, meaning everything is where it should be, although the aesthetic purists will of course hate it 😉

Bucking the trend with a second clamp for the Reverb/Brake combo
Up front its a RaceFace triple whammy with a Turbine R 35 stem in 40mm, Next SL 25 bars in 760mm width, and Half Nelson grips. Is this the perfect set up? Maybe? The Turbine R is probably not a stem you’ve heard of, I think its OE only, but its actually an Easton Haven stem with RaceFace logos. The Easton Haven is probably the nicest stem thats come out from any manufacturer in modern times, made only better by putting RaceFace logos on it (RaceFace bought Easton a few years back so its no surprise they’ve begun to migrate Easton’s MTB range over to RaceFace and leave Easton to focus on the road side). I’ve plumped for a 40mm here, as the medium AM would be a touch short for me if I went smaller, but we do now stock the strap-the-bar-to-the-steerer 32mm length too. A dinky stem indeed and fitting for our long reach short stem philosophy. If I could change anything I would add maybe 15mm to the Next SL bars, as 760mm is a touch narrower than I am used to, having ridden Sixc and Atlas so extensively over the last couple of years, but its still a good size, and I will happily trade the extra length I could get from a Sixc bar for the feel and weight saving to be had from a Next SL on this bike.

Can different logos make a product better? Yes they can.

The First Ride

I won’t bore you with telling you how awesome this AM is. If you’re reading this then you probably know one of two things:
  1. You own an AM and you know its awesome
  2. You know I am a founder of Bird and so unlikely to say anything bad 🙂
Either way, extolling the virtues of my new bike is probably pointless, so instead, I will tell you how I feel about it. Its so nice having a bike thats genuinely mine again, I can’t really say. Its a labour of love, built over about 6 months when you take into account the hubs and rims, which I am 100% happy with the outcome. This bike will provide me smiles for miles I am sure, and thats the way it should be. Whether you buy a stock bike, custom build or do something between the two, there’s always a Bird that will put a smile on your face and remind you why you ride.
Ben.

First ride day is special no matter how many bikes you build.
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Tech Talk: Tuning Air Forks With Tokens

When RockShox introduced the revamped Pike, they brought with it Air Tokens. They were not the first to allow you to adjust the air volume of their forks, but they were the first to make it mainstream. Those innocuous looking little red plastic blobs that shipped with your fork started a revolution. 2 years on, the little red blobs are grey, and pretty much every manufacturer has something doing something similar in their forks now, but what are they for and why should you care?

Second time luckier. The Pike Mk2 was the one that changed it all.

Why Should I Care?

You should care because if you’ve not messed around with the air tokens in your fork, you’re probably not getting the best performance you could. Its a very cheap and easy way of transforming your suspension to behave in a way that suits you and your riding style, without the expense of custom tuning.

How an Air-Spring Works

To understand what the tokens can do for you, we need to first understand how an air spring works. A normal* coil spring exhibits behaviour known as being linear. What this means is that the spring inside a coil fork will require the exact same force to move it 10% of its travel whether its at the start or end of its travel. On the other hand, an air spring exhibits whats known as progression. Progression means that the air spring will require less force to move it 10% of its stroke at the start of its travel than the end. There are other forces at work such as stiction (STatic frICTION) and damping, but the spring is the basic mechanism of making your forks bounce, and so deserves your attention.
* Progressive coil springs do exist, achieved through using variable coiling, but we’ll not worry about that now.
To put that in simple terms, imagine you are loading weights onto the ends of your bars to compress your forks. You might need 100KG to compress a fork from 0% of available travel to 50% of its travel, but you might then need 200KG to get through the second half of the forks travel. So you needed 300KG of weight on the bars to get from fully extended to fully compressed, but:
100KG of that got you half way 200KG might have got you 4/5ths through The final 1/5th of the travel needed another 100KG In practice what this means is that the deeper into your travel you get, the more the forks resist compression. Useful to prevent big bumps eating too much travel when you have nice small bump compliance, and vice versa useful to prevent you having to run too much air in order to hold the forks up, killing your small bump sensitivity.

What Do the Tokens Do?

Tokens reduce the volume of air inside your fork. This links to the important concept that the increase in spring rate (the progressiveness of the air spring) relates to the reduction in its volume as it compresses, in relationship to its total volume. Sounds complicated? Its not so bad. What it means is that the progression is relative to how much you reduced the volume by as a percentage, not the actual volume lost. So we think of 50% of the air spring volume, not 50 cubic centimetres.
The tokens take up space that would other wise be filled with air, and hence part of the air spring. Say your fork had 100mm of travel. With no tokens in, using all your travel might have used 60% of the available air volume, squeezing all the air into the remaining 40% space. If you added a couple of tokens, the fork might now use 80% of the available air volume in compression, squeezing the air into the remaining 20% of space. Its this adjustment in the relative volume of the air spring that changes to progressiveness of the fork.

May the Force be with you, and progressive.

My Forks Have Tokens in From The Factory. So I’m Done Right?

Probably not. The factory installed tokens are there to adjust the base spring volume from what it would be at the forks maximum possible travel version, to the one you have bought. By adding tokens, the manufacturer is attempting to correct the air spring progression so its roughly the same feel whether your fork is 120mm, or 180mm travel. Put another way, without a good slug of tokens a 120mm fork would blow through its travel so easily it would be basically useless, assuming of course it is a RockShox 120mm fork based on a 180mm chassis like a Lyrik or Yari. With each step down in travel (10 or 20mm) the manufacturer will add another token to compensate for the air volume, but that doesn’t mean its right for you.

When Should I Use Tokens?

This is the million dollar question, and the one to which there is no real definitive answer, but here’s some useful guides as to when tokens might be needed, or maybe need to be removed**.
Scenario 1: You set your sag properly, and the forks feel great on the small stuff, but even moderate trails, rollers and berms are using all of the travel in the fork. Solution: Add token(s) & maintain fork pressure. Scenario 2: You’ve got the forks running sweet when they are deep into their travel, holding you up well and using their travel at just the right rate, but they feel harsh on the small stuff, and the bar buzz is killing you. Solution: Add token(s) & drop fork pressure.
Scenario 3: Your forks feel great at the start of the stroke, but you’re rarely reaching full travel, possibly as little as 50% travel.
Solution: Remove token(s) & maintain air pressure.
Scenario 4: In order to get a decent amount of travel from your forks you’re running them so soft that you have used 30%+ of your travel just getting to sag point.
Solution: Remove token(s) & increase fork pressure.
** Removed? WTF? All I ever hear is people telling me to add more tokens!? Well tokens are a double edged sword, too few and you risk blowing through your travel or running your forks too hard, too many and you’ll never get full travel from your forks. Its worth considering both adding and removing tokens depending on what you want to achieve.
A quick note on ‘maintaining air pressure’. Above I list 3 air pressure options, drop, add or maintain. Maintain doesn’t mean literally keeping it exactly the same, but rather that the pressure you’re running is about right, and its the progression in the spring thats wrong. Changing the spring progression using tokens will effect the fork across the whole of its travel range, so some tweaking of the pressure might be needed to compensate, but its not the main factor at work here.

OK, I’m Sold. What do I Need?

There are four basic things you’ll need to make the magic happen.
  • A socket or good quality spanner to fit on the air top cap. A decent wide adjustable (30mm) spanner is fine for occasional use. It might fix something around the house too.
  • A token compatible fork as found on almost all the Bird bikes. See below for the RockShox compatible fork options.
  • Some tokens suitable for your forks. You probably received some with your forks or bike, but you can always buy some more here: http://www.bird.bike/?s=token&post_…
  • A good shock pump. Specifically one good shock pump. You may own more than one. When testing your set up, always us the same pump. Even the same pumps from the same brand can yield different results when using two pumps. Its always best to stick with a single pump as no-matter how inaccurate, its likely to be consistent, which is the main thing. Its not actually important whether it reads 100PSI but its actually 120PSI. What counts it that when you pump it to 100PSI its the same pressure as the last time you did that.

RockShox Token Compatible Forks and Base Settings

The following chart shows the travel options for each RockShox token compatible fork, and how many tokens you should expect to find under the top cap should you open it up.

How many tokens did your fork some with?

A Rough Guide to Get You Started

As I mentioned earlier, there are no hard and fast rules on the use of tokens. Every one is different and what suits you might not suit someone else. However, as a starting point, I would recommend for the average weight, average trail rider:
  • 32mm Chassis Forks (Revelations etc.) – As from the factory.
  • 35mm Pike Forks (RC & RCT3) : +1 token for every 20mm away from the max travel of the fork (160mm on a 27.5) + 2 tokens.
  • 35mm Yari and Lyrik Forks : +1 token for every 20mm away from the max travel of the fork (180mm on a 27.5) – 1 token.

Recommended tokens shown in blue.

So How Do I Do This Then?

OK, so you’re going to go for it! Good stuff. Here’s the guide from RockShox on how to do it, but don’t worry its not hard.

Keep In Touch!

Thanks for reading, if you want to hear more from us on other technical insights, don’t forget to like our FaceBook Page to get Tech Talk articles direct into your timeline each week (or as often as I can write them!). Any questions drop me comment into the comments area and I will answer them as quick as I can.
Ben
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Rear Suspension Design and Aeris Kinematics

Ever wondered what makes the rear suspension on the Aeris so great?  Bird’s in house Mechanical Engineer, Dan Hodge gives his views on suspension design and how the Aeris came about. Read on to find out more…

When developing the suspension kinematics for the Aeris, I had a few key characteristics in mind:

The bike had to pedal fantastically; even when stomping on the pedals when stood up out of the saddle I didn’t want any pedal bob from the back end.  I didn’t want to rely on compression damping to achieve this either, which would kill the activity and grip from the back end.  This means that I needed lots of Anti-Squat (Anti Squat is the resistance of the rear suspension to compress under forwards acceleration) built into the frame.

The shock curve had to be supportive throughout the stroke, without any nasty falling rates at the end of the stroke (previous testing and analysis on the trails had already highlighted this as something to avoid).

The leverage ratio (this is the ratio between how much the wheel moves to how much the shock moves) on the shock had to be low – this meant long stroke shocks.  I wanted it low so the damper doesn’t have to work as hard in order to control the back wheel – this also means that shock and pivot forces are kept to a minimum, which is a good thing for bearing and bushing life.  For reference, the shock curve (or shock rate to be more precise) and leverage ratio are inversely proportional to each other:  Shock rate = 1/Leverage ratio, and Leverage ratio = 1/shock rate.

The first thing that I did before designing the Aeris was to write my own kinematics package in Microsoft Excel.  Why not use an off the shelf kinematics package?  Because when you code the maths, you understand the maths.  I felt that understanding the mathematics behind anti-squat and shock curves was the key to developing great suspension.  Writing in Excel also allowed me to actively link the 3D CAD model with the kinematics model. So when the 3D model changes, the kinematics model automatically updates and generates the new kinematics curves for my review, instantly.  From start to finish the Excel kinematics project too me 3 months to develop and implement.

Once I had fully grasped mountain bike rear suspension design myself, it made me realize how much misinformation there is out there on the internet.  I don’t claim to have invented a new suspension platform, or to have designed the most efficient system on the planet either – design is all about choices and compromises, no suspension system is perfect.  It’s about deciding what you want to achieve and what you are and are not prepared to compromise on in order to achieve your goals.

One thing that’s worth mentioning is “axle path”.  This is the path that the rear axle takes during the compression of the rear suspension.  You may have noticed that I haven’t mentioned axle path at all so far; this is because it’s irrelevant.

Yes, that’s right – I said that axle path is irrelevant. When choosing how you want your rear suspension to behave, axle path isn’t something that you aim for. You decide how much anti-squat that you want, and you decide what shape shock curves you want to aim for, and the axle path is a resultant of those factors.  In a perfect world you would try to control the axle path so that the rear wheel moves in a straight line parallel to the front (in order to maintain a constant wheelbase during full compression), but without using idler wheels to run the chain over this would result in enormous amounts of anti-squat and chain growth, which would make the bike ride terribly.  So in the world of “normal” bike design, axle path is irrelevant.

When you see a bike company presenting a graph plotting axle path, ask yourself this:  What are they trying to tell me?  Is this axle path good or bad?  Is it better than the other axle path on X’s bike?  The truth is that it’s meaningless; What does mean something is how much anti-squat is present in the rear suspension. Give an average rider two bikes, both with fully open (i.e. pedal platform disengaged) rear shocks, but one bike with low (say 0-20% when sagged) anti-squat, and one bike with high (say 90-110%) anti-squat, and ask them to pedal as hard as they can.  I’ll bet that most riders would be able to tell the difference instantly – the low anti-squat bike will be bobbing all over the place during acceleration (and consequently wasting precious rider effort), whereas the high anti-squat bike will feel more like a hardtail under power.  Shock curves are a little bit harder for the average rider to differentiate, but a poor shock curve will usually be detected by peculiar behaviour when riding – sudden unexpected bottom-outs or spikes through g-outs and jumping.

Now onto the Aeris rear suspension:

 

Shock curve

Shock curves are a curve. Some may appear to be straight, but unless you have a very clever linkage then they are never perfect straight lines.  Curves have a minimum and a maximum point; these can be at the beginning, middle or end of the stroke.  A curve that starts low and steadily increases is a progressive shock curve – the effective spring and damping rate increases from the start to the end of the stroke.  Some progression at the end of the stroke is normally desirable to prevent the suspension from bottoming out.  A curve that starts high and ends low is a regressive shock curve – the suspension is relatively easier to compress at the end of the stroke compared to the start. There are some situations where this can be useful, but generally this is something to avoid.  Then you have regressive-progressive curves, and progressive-regressive curves.  Regressive-progressive means that the suspension starts firm, then gets soft, then firms up again. Progressive-regressive is the opposite – it starts soft, then firms up, then gets soft again.

As you’ll see below, Aeris has a regressive-progressive shock curve. The minimum point of the curve is around the sag point (30%), which means that the suspension is most supple and active when sagged.  This is not by accident – the curve was carefully crafted and iteratively tweaked in order to achieve this characteristic. After the sag point, the shock curve gently increases up to full travel, which gives support to the rider during G-outs and drops.

Another thing to watch out for is how shock curve data is presented in terms of the scale on the graph. If you can’t see a scale on the Y-axis, then alarm bells should be ringing.  I’ll demonstrate this below with the Aeris shock curves.

The three graphs below are all the exact same shock curve, but I changed the Y-axis scale on each. Normally I present shock curves from 0 to roughly the maximum range – this allows me to easily judge the curve at a glance.  This is the first curve.

aeris-140mm-normal-plot

The next curve is zoomed in, so that the Y-axis is based on the maximum and minimum points of the curve. Unless you know where zero is, this can be very misleading.  It can make a flat curve look very curved; without a reference point or scale this sort of curve is meaningless.

aeris-140mm-zoomed-plot

The last graph shows what you can do if you zoom out on the Y-axis – it flattens curves out.  You can see zero, but it’s difficult to see the overall proportions of the shock curve.

aeris-140mm-flat-plot

Remember, all three of the graphs above are displaying the exact same set of data – only the Y-axis scale has changed. So, beware of the Y-axis scale and look to see if it starts at zero (if it has a scale at all).

 

Anti-Squat

As mentioned above, I wanted Aeris to pedal really well. I wanted it to pedal well regardless of what shock it is fitted with, and without relying on a pedal platform to cancel out the pedal bob.  So I knew that it needed lots of anti-squat built into the frame and linkage.  But how much?  How do you go about defining a good amount without dialing in too much (too much anti-squat is just as bad as too little – the bike will rise up under power instead of squatting under power, both result in pedal bob)?  Well, you ride lots of bikes, analyse them with a kinematics analysis package and see what level of anti-squat feels good to you.  Anti-squat isn’t a constant parameter however – it changes depending on what gear you are in and where the rear suspension is in its travel.  So we (myself and Ben Pinnick) did exactly that – we rode a bunch of bikes with various suspension configurations, decided which ones we liked how they rode, and then looked at the anti-squat curves to see how riding on the trails correlated with the mathematics.  Then we decided on a level of anti-squat that we wanted the Aeris to have, which front chainring size to optimize it for (we decided on 32t), and I set about designing a linkage system to achieve our chosen % of anti-squat.  This is an iterative process – when you move pivots around to optimize the anti-squat, this changes the shock curve.  After a long time iterating the pivot points we were able to achieve both the shock curves that we wanted as well as the anti-squat characteristics.

I’ll be honest, the anti-squat curve below isn’t that helpful on its own.  The % anti-squat depends on the position of the centre of gravity (of the bike and rider together), so larger or smaller riders will experience different anti-squat levels. What it does show is that the anti-squat does vary by about 40% at sag depending if you’re in the smallest or largest gear on your cassette.  These curves only really help you when you have ridden the bike and can associate how it rides with the calculated anti-squat values.  I’ve separated out the frame anti-squat from the total anti-squat in order to show that total anti-squat is made up of two components – frame anti-squat and chain anti-squat. The total is the sum of these components and governs how resistant the suspension is to acceleration induced compression when pedalling.

aeris-140mm-anti-squat-32t

I’ve included the plot below so that you can see how changing your front chainring size can affect the levels of anti-squat.  Generally, larger front chainrings equals lower levels of anti-squat from the frame. The reverse is also true – smaller front chainrings increase the levels of anti-squat.  Remember that the important thing here is how the bike feels to you as a rider; anti-squat curves are great for comparing two different frames, but not as useful on their own.

aeris-140mm-anti-squat-34t

Well, that’s it for now; I hope that you found the above either useful or interesting. If there’s anything that I need to clarify or update in this article then please let me know.

 

Dan Hodge MEng CEng

Engineering Director, Bird Cycleworks

 

Posted on

Headset Bearings

It’s that time of year that we get asked about headset bearings…

All Bird bikes use ZS44 / ZS56 headsets. What does this mean?  Well, the diameter of the inside of our headtubes is 44mm at the top, and 56mm at the bottom.  The ZS part stands for “Zero Stack”.  So that’s the headset size sorted.

“But what bearings do I need?”  I hear you ask!  Well, here’s where it gets slightly more complicated

Most of our bikes ship out with our Bird headset, which happens to use the same bearings as a Hope headset.  The sizes are below, and can be bought through our website.

  • ZS44 36×45 degree 30.2mm ID 41mm OD
  • ZS56 45×45 degree 40mm ID 52mm OD

Before 2019 most of our complete bikes shipped with Cane Creek 40 headsets, which use 41mm top bearings (for the 1 1/8″ steerer tube) and 52mm lower bearings (for the 1.5″ tapered steerer tube).

40

Standard bearings from the Cane Creek 40 are steel, whereas the Cane Creek 110 headset uses stainless steel bearings which are compatible.

Just to be absolutely clear, here are the Cane creek part numbers, type and RRP of replacement headset bearings for your Bird Bike:

Stock Code Outer Diameter Series RRP
CBAA0006K 52mm (1.5″) 40 (Steel) £12.99
CBAA0006S 52mm (1.5″) 110 (Stainless) £32.99
CHSS2030 41mm (1″1/8) 40 (Steel) £14.99
CHSS2031 41mm (1″1/8) 110 (Stainless) £39.99

You can buy replacement bearings here:

Cane Creek 40 Headset Bearings – Standard

http://www.bird.bike/product/cane-creek-40110-headset-bearings-stainless/